Devon/Angus Beef Proves to Be Tasty & Tender
by Ridge Shinn

The data are in. The Devon/Angus calves that Hardwick Beef is harvesting are tender and tasty!

This isn’t really a surprise, because we had heard reports from customers that our 100% grass-fed Devon/Angus beef was both tender and tasty. Comments from friends and neighbors, our meat processor (with years of meat-eating experience), our customers and our vendors have all been overwhelmingly positive. In addition, a national Whole Foods representative says it’s the best beef he has tasted in America!

So we decided it was time to test our hypothesis that the Rotokawa® Devon bulls stamp their progeny with the characteristics of high-quality meat. We would do this by analyzing a random sample of ½ Rotokawa® Devon steers as they were harvested. We cut two adjacent rib eye steaks from the 12^th and 13^th rib of 25 steers.

Some of these steers were calves that were born and raised in Montana. They were fed hay and alfalfa, combined with a mineral supplement, for their first winter. Then the calves were grazed on ryegrass on irrigated land. When they were 15 to 17 months old and fat, weighing between 1,100 and 1,250 pounds, they were harvested. The cattle were killed in Montana and the primal were “wet-aged” for 14 days before the rib eye steaks were cut 1” thick and then frozen. Other steers were raised in the Northeast on perennial pasture, hay and haylage; carcasses were dry-aged before samples were harvested.

Samples Evaluated

The samples were shipped to grass-fed meat researcher Dr. Susan Duckett at Clemson University to be evaluated for fatty-acid values as well as tenderness values as measured with the Warner-Bratzler shear force test.

Preliminary findings are very exciting; the first eight samples show consistent high quality. Total fat values were equivalent to USDA low choice values; the Omega 6 Omega 3 ratio was a near perfect 1.26 to 1; and the Warner-Bratzler Shear values averaged 3.6 -- below the 4.1 level, which is the generally accepted range where 98% of people feel the meat is quite tender and of restaurant quality.

Highly acceptable taste and tenderness values are essential for the consumer to fully embrace a 100% grass-fed and finished beef program. The story about the health benefits of this product for the consumer, the animal, the farmer/rancher and the environment have been trumpeted in the press and are no longer even debated.

More and more 100% grass-fed producers and vendors are bringing beef to market and the overall quality has improved. Marian Burros, influential food writer for the New York Times, reports that nearly 75% of the samples she tried recently were good, whereas three years ago 75% were either “bad” or not tasty and tender. (August 30, 2006; read it by clicking here.)

Consistent Quality

Consistent quality of product is the goal of any long-term market success. Numerous 100% grass-fed beef companies rely on sorting cattle for quality using the ultrasound method. Live cattle can be evaluated for quality parameters and can then be harvested if they meet the quality standard set by the meat company. Other meat programs are based on a production protocol like “organic”; the protocol and “purity” or adherence to a particular standard is the prerequisite for participation in such programs, but there is less emphasis on consistent quality of the meat.

One reason for the extreme variability of meat today is the adherence to cross-breeding programs by the cattle industry, and some companies actually market “composite” bulls that are generally a three-way cross. The resulting variability that we see in the industry is the enemy of producing meat of a consistent quality.

At Hardwick Beef, we use sorting methods, including ultrasound, to select cattle for harvest. We admit this is a short term crutch. How many producers will allow a meat company to cut their herd and “cherry pick” their good cattle every year? A better approach is to breed high-quality herds using condensed, high-quality bulls, and that is what we at Bakewell Repro Center are doing to create a consistent meat product.

It takes a long perspective and patience to wait for a return on investment to create 100% grass-fed bulls. We at Hardwick Beef and Bakewell Repro Center believe that using artificial insemination (AI) with semen from the right bulls is an investment that allows a producer to breed a consistent group of high-quality calves with the overwhelming majority fitting the profile of high-quality grass-fed beef.

We at Bakewell have evaluated numerous breeds of cattle and subsets of these breeds around the world to find bulls suitable for this job. The breed that excels in this arena is the Devon.

In spite of the mountains of press criticizing animal fats over the past decades, the consumer is now beginning to distinguish between good fats and bad fats. Essential fatty acids are just that -- essential for many aspects of health. Conjugated linoleic acids, which are produced in the rumen of bovines (one of the few places these are manufactured), have numerous health benefits including creating lean muscle mass and stopping tumor growth in mammalian experiments. The omega 6/omega 3 ratio is critical in determining how these essential fatty acids benefit human health, rather than harm it.

High levels of good fat and tenderness in meat are essential for palatability of 100% grass fed beef. The consumer’s acceptance and embrace of this product depends on experiencing quality consistently.

The recent data are excellent indicators that Devon are the ultimate grass cattle. They have always been an easy fleshing breed on grass and were also known historically as the “butcher’s breed” for the quality and volume of meat. We at Bakewell believe that artificial insemination using proven Devon bulls is the fastest and best way to introduce consistent quality to your 100% grass-fed beef program.

Click here to download the data: http://www.bakewellrepro.com/bulls/RotokawaDevonsdata.pdf